Posts filed under 'Travel'
so i am back in New York, thrown once again into this metropolitan maelstrom of instability, surliness and frost. i’ve been sleeping my days away, much like i slept my days away in London, but for different reasons both times — there, i was exhausted; here, i am hiding. i have nothing to speak of my return here. these days all i’m concerned about is how i’m going to get the shards of heart out of the carpet.
but enough mournful talk. let’s talk about London and how i love everything about it. so i’ve always had great expectations of London, expectations that are swollen with stories and imagery from some of my favorite books in the world. i close my eyes and i can see London… where the afternoons are filled with the treacle tarts, gollywogs, tea cakes and morning mist dresses of Enid Blyton. come nightfall, the evenings are attended to by the grown-ups of J.M Barrie who tuck their children into bed with bedtime stories and then slip out of the house — the men in tailcoats and their wives in white satin gloves — into the foggy streets of nighttime London. not far away, the pretentious laughter of Oscar Wilde’s corrupt and cunning haut monde ring loudly in the air! the rich make merry while Dickens’ young boys dart in and out of the cobblestone alleys, leaving behind them the sooty trails of innocence. and then i play with the word ’sixpence’ on my tongue. how many Willy Wonka bars can sixpence buy? will i find out when i get to London, i wondered when the plane swept smoothly off the tarmac at JFK one month ago. will i see old men smoking tobacco out of pipes? does the old curiosity shop really exist?
i have since discovered that London is actually far more than my imagination can take me to. at first i worried that i would be expecting too much of a city i’d never even been to, that i was furnishing it with all these overdressed ideals and ultimately destroying my own utopia… but now that i have come and gone, there is truly nowhere else that i would rather be. i think i left my soul in London. or at least, a hemisphere of it. this may sound hasty, but in London, i felt like i truly belonged. i’ve missed that feeling. i wore it like a second skin back home in Malaysia, but 4 months of being in NYC has completely sapped me of any such peace. no one ever truly belongs in a place like New York.
and contrary to forewarning, i did not hate London weather. in fact, i quite loved it – sissy sprinkles, puddles, clouds and all. all the grey brought out a kind of melancholy in me that was actually healthy. it encouraged me to think, which is something i haven’t had the opportunity to guiltlessly immerse myself in for awhile. there were days when i would oversleep and wake up to a 4pm setting sun, and i’d just lay in bed, smell the sheets and smile. walking down Marylebone High underneath the oyster-coloured skies was the most cathartic thing i did for myself. in London, i felt at home.
also, English people are as kind as i thought they would be. sure, there are the gruff ones, but mostly, everyone is… soft. kind. sympathetic. the women really do have kisses hidden in the corner of their mouths, and even the youngest of men have twinkles in their eyes. coming from New York to a place like London is quite like stepping into the warm and floury embrace of a jolly and portly grandmother. in New York, you are just a passing face; in London, people take the time to check out what you’re wearing. god, in comparison NYC is so bad for the soul, isn’t it? how does one feel human here? sigh. sigh sigh sigh.
some places in London that i went to and really liked:
1. Portobello Market
possibly my favorite place in all of London. Portobello Market is a long street market along Portobello Road in Notting Hill (!) that is open from 8am to 6pm on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. i’m not sure what it’s like there on the weekdays, but the market is absolutely bustling on Saturdays, an atmosphere that i absolutely loved. Portobello Market houses stalls and stalls of antiques, curios, independent designs, handicrafts, vintage clothes, bags and shoes, old cameras and jewelry, secondhand books… and just about any kind of bric-a-brac you’re looking for.
a shop in Portobello Market selling all kinds of doorknobs *___*
an enclave selling mostly vintage jewelry and secondhand books
pocket watches on necklaces
i love this place :) i could spend a whole day just sifting through all the beautiful things here.
2. Camden Town
thronged by London’s younger set, Camden Town is garish and brash, but never boring. there is a largely punk rock, emo-kid, gypsy vibe about Camden that is immediately apparent from the wild harajuku-ish merchandise that is both sold and paraded around the area, and also the dudes pushing marijuana on the sidewalk :P slightly dodgy zone, but definitely cool in its own way. there are several markets along the streets of Camden Town, but the best one is Camden Lock. everything else is kinda Petaling Streetish, but Camden Lock is a larger market within a courtyard that vends the artier stuff, mostly handicrafts and trinkets. there are also lots of new age shops in Camden Lock, with palm readers and the like!
the punk / emo-goth / lolita-esque clothes for sale
a little part of Camden Lock
3. Marylebone High Street
Marylebone High Street is the main artery of the little shopping district of Marylebone, and while the High Street is the street i like the most (it’s the most concentrated), the other smaller streets that girdle it are definitely worth checking out as well. the shopping here is demure and sophisticated, with the bigger brands giving way to the smaller independent labels. my favorite shops on the street: Mascaro the shoe shop which has gorgeous shoes (they also carry stock from Pretty Ballerinas, which makes ballet flats that are to die for…!!), Daunt the bookstore, and the Oxfam secondhand bookstore at which i spent too many an hour reading books that i should have just bought for 1-2 pounds.
Daunt Bookstore
the Oxfam secondhand bookstore
4. Regent’s Park
a huge, beautiful park in the heart of London that draws you in even in the winter. such a romantic place to be in when the sun is setting. also ducks galore, which always makes me happy :) apparently there’s a rose garden in here too, but of course none of them were in bloom when i was there.
5. Tate Museum of Modern Art
i love this museum right down to its secret enclosed spaces and the graffiti on the back of the doors in the women’s bathroom stalls. definitely a must visit in London, if you’re into art galleries.
one piece from the famed water lily series by Monet
this was my favorite display at the Tate. the artist worked as a maid at a hotel for a period of time, and while she was there, she took photos of the belongings and rooms of the hotel’s various customers each day of their stay, and also kept a journal describing the belongings and state of the rooms as they changed each day. she went through their luggage, passports, trash can even! she then documented her findings and turned it into art. ah. satisfies the voyeur in us :P the people in the photo are clamoring around just one of about eight or nine pieces.
graffiti on the bathroom door
6. Borough Market
greek desserts
Alvo thinks that Borough Market is an authentic British culinary experience, and i quite agree. Borough Market is a roomy food market in Southwark that sells all sorts of international gourmet food under one roof. foodstuff purveyed: freshly baked bread, imported herbs and spices, gourmet sausages, exotic meats like ostrich and pheasant, burgers, cured meats, sandwiches, falafel, chocolates, candy, mulled wine and a whole smorgasbord of other delectable things. the various vendors here make for good lunch stops. while i didnt venture to sample any exotic meat, i must say i had a very good steak in red wine sauce sandwich from a stall somewhere in the bowels of Borough Market. also had this hot scallop with a bacon and bean sprout mix which is purportedly a favorite at the market. both stalls shouldnt be too hard to find if you’re going to be poking around :)
a delicious chorizo sandwich
7. Oxford & Bond Street
i didnt explore either street as much as i would have liked to, but apparently it’s the only place Azlan ever stops by when he comes to London, so i suppose that must count for something :P it’s good shopping la i suppose. Bond Street is also where the almighty Selfridges is, which for some reason is a huge favorite not just with the Londoners, but also the rest of the world. if one more person tells me that Selfridges is their favorite mall in the world, i will scream. why? what’s so cool about Selfridges? it’s just like Metrojaya but with bigger labels… i must be missing something :\
8. Carnaby Street
i LOVE! it’s another one of those shopping districts; quite like Marylebone High Street, but younger and more contemporary.
9. Soho / Leicester Square / Piccadilly Circus
Piccadilly Circus
the Soho / Leicester Sq / Piccadilly Circus area is a lively and spirited junction that teems with good restaurants, pubs, bars and clubs. it’s also where Chinatown is, as well as many West End theaters. Covent Garden, a large touristy courtyard housing some rather interesting toy shops, is also nearby. i mostly descended upon and departed quickly from this area whenever i had to meet someone there, but i’m certain that some idle hours spent traversing the area would uncover gems here and there. nevertheless, i quite like the area — it’s convenient, diverse and effervescent.
entrance to Chinatown
a little carnival in Leicester Square
——-
i left London with a heavy heart, but writing this post has made me miss it even more :(
January 25th, 2009
after thrice missing the train to Nottingham (consequence of the lethal combination of oversleeping, taking way too long in the shower and the conniving machinations of Fate – he deliberately left me in darkness), i successfully cried my way to a free ticket onto the 11.15 Nottingham-bound train today. not bad eh? so i’m now lying on my stomach in songjun’s house in Dunkirk drinking perfectly-made hot honey with lemon, happy and contented while songjun snores away on the futon. Dunkirk is a little suburb in Nottingham that i recently learned is dubbed Taman Dunkirk Jaya because of its principally Malaysian population. i am jealous; how nice it must be to be constantly surrounded by lahs, yau mou!s and cibais. and the promise of marmite chicken…
anyway, because i am deathly afraid of missing my train back to London, i have vowed to not fall asleep tonight. so in the extra time that has newly been opened up to me, i have somewhat learned how to use iPhoto, and therefore finally have some photos of London to show! happy day! folks who have been emailing me about the dearth of photos in my blog, may you now be appeased!
#1 london suburbia
#2 a small toy store somewhere in south kensington. sigh <3 london is full of adorable shops like this one
#3 a toy sink from the shop. the 6-year-old me would have loved one of these. actually.. so would the 20-year-old me
#4 mince pies! in my younger days when i devoured enid blyton books like no other, i imagined the delightful mince pies of enid blyton’s world to be these robust, savoury pies stuffed with scrumptious minced pork and piquant herbs. alas, this sublime image has been destroyed! mince pies are actually sweet; in fact, they are awfully reminiscent of pineapple tarts. not that pineapple tarts are awful, it’s just that mince pies were a lot more delectable in my imagination…
#5 Tamtim and a mince pie. haha! he liked them a lot more than i did
#6 more cute London shops. this one is a baking utensils + cake deco shop. sigh! i was too afraid to go in, lest i feel like i must own everything in there. ginny, you understand me right.
#7 me and the famed Four Seasons roast duck restaurant in chinatown. verdict: VERY good duck. i think it’s a bit of a stretch to say that it’s the ‘best duck in the world’, because it’s really of a different category from the roast duck of malaysia and hong kong (the Four Seasons duck sits in an absolutely yummy dark sauce whereas the roast duck we’re used to back home is usually drier), but it’s so good that i could eat it every day. actually, i kind of did for the first week i was in london.
i also went to Gold Mine in Bayswater, where the renowned chef of Four Seasons supposedly ran to, and i do actually think the duck there is yummier, though marginally so. the sauces are different, i believe, but Gold Mine has the one-up of this tofu dish called pei pa tofu. it is to die for!
#8 the Tube. i like it SO much more than NYC’s subway — faster, cleaner, and less sketch. i definitely do not miss the drunk and violent bums nor the smells of eau de dog pee in the New York subway stations…
#9 punctuality, as they say, is the thief of time
#10 making friends with the lions of Chinatown.
#11 Gloucester Road station, the tube station i see every day!
#12 outside the Adelphi Theater, where i watched Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat. it was the first West End musical i watched upon arriving in London. i dont know… it’s just not the kind of musical i like. it was campy, tacky and i could not appreciate the music at all :\
#13 voon emerging from the tandas! this picture is just too cute
#14 Tower Bridge in the night, en route to Valerie’s apartment, which is fast gaining the reputation of Malaysia Hall #2!
#15 andrew, emily and the glenister bros. look at andrew’s big happy smile!
#16 cute teapot i totally wanted
#17 calling home from the steps of a hotel near Bond Street. i was shocked to find that a mere 3 minute call cost me something like 8 pounds. T____T le sigh. never again.
#18 obligatory tourist photo with a london phone booth. i think i was making a face cos i couldnt open the door. mou sik fan!
#19 tamtim and i – partners in crime!
#20 tamtim acting fierce
#21 i also watched Les Miserables! which i loved to bits. officially my favorite musical now.
#22 the staff at Odeon Cinemas have their favorite movie printed on their nametags! this guy misspelled Memento, but he knew a lot about movies, which made for good conversation as i was getting popcorn
#23 at the Hummingbird Bakery, where i had the best red velvet cupcake ever. ever. ever. ever. more pictures another day!
#24 at a secondhand bookshop in Portobello Market
#25 another secondhand bookshop, but this one is in Camden. secondhand bookshops are without a question the one thing i like most about London. i think i’ve bought something like 15 books since i got here, and for under 30 pounds. /smug. some gems: Vita Brevis by Jostein Gaarder, a collection of letters by D.H Lawrence, a critical analysis on Virgil’s Aeneid, and a book of Oscar Wilde short stories for 20 pence. happiness :)
ah, london. i cant quite get enough of you.
January 14th, 2009
hello folks,
a chapter of my life has closed neatly. now, like the new year of 2009, a brand new chapter is dawning upon me. keywords in this chapter: embarkation, discovery, fear, confidence, leaping, solitude and education. it will be a time of much healing. 2008 drowned me in its unfair expectations and unwise judgments, but i have a curious suspicion that the new year is going to love me. i will be enveloped. there will be affinity and plenty of socks. there will be dreams and self-sustenance. it will be just me and what’s important.
i’m actually in Barcelona right now. gorgeous, gritty Barcelona with the grumpy old people and dizzy structures, where i will be ushering in the new year. it’s been a most haphazard and disorganized trip; i found myself here quite by chance and almost didnt make it. but now i’m glad i’m here. Barcelona is vast and labyrinthine – the wide streets beg to be skipped across, there is an infinite number of crooked cobblestone alleys to duck into, and even the massive throngs of people dont fully permeate all that Barcelona has to offer. you grasp, but you dont quite get your fistful. quite disorienting, but very exciting. i also had the best chocolate gelato i’ve ever had in this lifetime; Lygon Street has been dethroned.
but what i love most about Barcelona is the languid attitude towards time. everything here operates a couple of hours later than the rest of the world – dinner starts at 9pm, partying starts at midnight and ends at 5 in the morning, people sleep in late and stay up late. 2pm to 4pm are the siesta hours, where shops close and people halt work to head out for a lazy lunch and drinks or go home to take a nap. it’s so indulgent, i absolutely love it. growing old feels a lot less scary in Barcelona. here, it is a cultural and social norm to give yourself time to breathe. and sleep. and take bubble baths should you feel like it.
today i went to Parc Guell. how do i describe what it is? in a nutshell, it is a park featuring Antoni Gaudi’s architectural works that turns that little chunk of hill into an amalgamation of a theme park, the world of Alice in Wonderland, underwater, and a gingerbread house – all within the shell of a normal, everyday park with trees, grass, dogs and other parkly things. one day i’ll tell you guys about the trippy world of Parc Guell; just not today, because i want to talk briefly about bubbles for now.
so i was at Parc Guell, and in the midst of the main terrace, surrounded by a crowd of onlookers, was a man making huge soap bubbles from a pail of soapy water and a hoop of rope. i suppose he works for the park authorities, and his purpose is to make Parc Guell feel even more fantasylike with his big, colorful rainbow bubbles that are reminiscent of Gaudi’s work. they’re just bubbles, i know, but everyone – myself included – was very mesmerized. the sight of huuuuuge curvy bubbles wobbling through the air and catching sunlight is a strangely soothing one. but what disturbed me were the two little children, a boy and a girl, running in circles around the man and trying to pop every bubble that he made. they were young, maybe 8 years old or so, but so destructive for all their blonde hair and blue eyes. it was shocking that such beautiful creatures could be so vicious – they were clearly enjoying themselves while destroying each bubble with their outstretched index fingers, completely ignorant that they were ruining the fun for a hundred other people who genuinely loved the bubbles and all their beauty.
but isnt that the thing about beauty? i dont dare say everyone, but i do think that the more ambitious of us yearn badly to be one with beauty, to be associated with it or even to have some fleeting form of contact with this ethereal concept. and so we stretch out our index fingers to touch, so engrossed in our own thrilled feelings and lightheadedness that we dont realize we’re innocently destroying the very thing we worship so. we all want to leave our mark and impose our influence on beautiful things, eager to carve our legacy into this beauty, but really, we are ruining these things forever with our selfishness. no one beyond us can then partake in the joy that was once brought to the world by that ephemeral beauty. and how do we live with the guilt, if ever it occurs to us? how do we make amends?
it’s kind of sad. and only 8 years old or so.
but then i’m 20 and still learning.
here’s to a happy 2009, everybody :)
December 31st, 2008
i was a field mouse hiding at the bottom shelf of the bookcase, clutching a tome that felt larger than life, shaking with fear. the world swiveled around me in curvy waves of pounding feet and harsh fingernails, and i felt like the whole of Selfridges was going to swallow me alive. Gerrard lay forgotten on the floor somewhere and i would probably never see him again. remember the day he came to me, delivered into my hands unsuspectingly in a little jewelry packet? all this time later, i lost him and didnt even realize it until i missed the familiar thud it would make against my heart. an hour ago i was running helter skelter through a park behind Bond Street and laughing with the taste of chilly London air on my tongue, but as i crouched there in Selfridges amongst the towering stacks of books, i felt truly alone. actually, i’m so sick of Selfridges. i’ve been there for days on end now. and tomorrow (actually, in three hours), i’m going to be meeting some friends there for the Boxing Day sales, but i am optimistically relegating the whole jostling, elbowing and snatching shindig to the category of spectator sports. i also cant do the queue thing. queues drive me up the wall; there’s just too much foot-tapping and fidgeting on my part to be had. and then there’s the dangerous thinking that is inevitable as one waits. right now, all i want to do is not think. coz i’m on holiday. this new-found aversion to thinking is precisely the reason why i’m even here. ah, life. ah, london. so full of pompous cupcakes and prickly christmas trees.
merry belated christmas, everyone :)
how did you guys spend christmas? please entertain me with lovely stories of hot chocolate, crazy xmas eve parties, kisses san mistletoe, church service, gift exchanges or turkey from Mr Ho’s Fine Foods .. :) or even lovely stories of none of the above.
as for me, i ushered in christmas day with a congregation of crazy malaysians cramped into a little enclave in Butler’s Wharf – we had pizza, played Pictionary and passed around a strange-looking thing called a beer bong. then i hibernated until 4pm and woke up to milk chocolate digestive biscuits. watched Before Sunrise in intervals. stuffed myself with turkey stuffing later on at night. talked all night long. took a long shower with my favorite papaya soap from Body Shop. quite perfect.
some pictures:
a stand at Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park where i bought hot blackcurrant. Ribena :)
toffee apples, something i’d only ever read about in books up till this christmas. i’m still not exactly sure how to eat them though… i stupidly bit very hard into one and almost broke my jaw in the process. so i ended up sticking the apple into the oven to get a gooey sugary coating instead. that was a lot nicer.
my santa hat, which i later found out was actually a santa stocking. quite embarrassing.
a nice huge christmas eve bratwurst. happiness! this came with mulled wine, which is supposed to be a christmas favorite, but was kinda awful-tasting in my coarse and unrefined opinion :\
crazy malaysians! spot the beer bong
big floating snowman in Carnaby Street
outside Selfridges
December 26th, 2008
every now and then, i get emails from friends and strangers asking for recommendations of places to go and things to do in Hong Kong. what i usually do is forward them all a copy of an email i hastily wrote a while ago, but for a while now i’ve been thinking of doing up a proper list of the to-do’s in Hong Kong. and i finally did!
it’s not going to be the best and most comprehensive list ever, because after all this is just one person’s opinion, but hopefully it will be somewhat helpful for all you folks who are planning a trip to HK anytime soon :) and if you haven’t been there yet, please do go!!! it’s an amazing city and i absolutely love it. given the choice, i would live and work there.
The List, in no particular order:
To Do
1. Mongkok
Mongkok is, to me, the essence of HK more than any other place. it is loud neon signs, street food stalls on the sidewalks, markets, throngs of people rushing some place, char chan tengs (cafes), traditional medicine shops, DVD stores and clothing stores all crammed into one very haphazard and bustling zone, yet still retaining the gritty and rustic charm of old Hong Kong. so amazing. you cannot go to HK and skip out on Mongkok! located on the Kowloon side, Mongkok houses many of HK’s best tourist attractions, such as the Ladies Market which sells all sorts of clothes, shoes, bags, jewelery and household items; the Bird Market and the Flower Market; Fa Yuen Street which is sport shoe haven; Portland Street, the infamous red light district in Mongkok; and of course, the wonderful Temple Street (aka Miu Kai) which is in my humble opinion the best street market in all of HK.
a quieter Mongkok in the middle of the night
Bird Market, Flower Market, Goldfish Market and Fa Yuen Street are great places to shop at if you’re looking for something specific, but even if you’re not looking for what they specialize in, they are all very interesting places that are worth a visit if you have the time. if you don’t, however, i’d suggest going straight to Ladies Market or Temple Street – the former is more fashion-centric and the latter has just about everything under the sun. dont forget to bargain! Portland Street nearby is also worth a look-see; it’s seedy yet vibrant, and definitely intriguing at night. walking amongst all the brothels and vice dens located here is like transporting yourself into one of those HK triad movies!
2. Victoria’s Peak
it’s a mountain on HK Island that boasts a magnificent view of Hong Kong, barring smog and mist. the sunset and the nighttime view here are gorgeous. take a tram or bus up from Central to The Peak, then follow the jogging trail around the mountain top till you get to That Spot where you’ll find all the photographers camping out. fair bit of walking, but the view is completely worth it.
3. Islands
HK has MANY islands surrounding it, but the more well-known and accessible ones are Lamma, Lantau and Cheung Chau. visiting the islands is something that most tourists dont do because they either dont have time or are not interested in the rural side of HK, but visiting Lamma Island was one of the best things i ever did in HK.
Sok Ku Wan on Lamma Island, where all the seafood restaurants are
Lamma Island is a 20-30 minute ferry or sampan ride from Aberdeen and Central (i would recommend going from Aberdeen because then you’ll boat past the Aberdeen Fishermen Village, a little village where the people live on boats) and is very quaint and tranquil. i spent some time hiking around the villages in Lamma, peeking into people’s houses (discreetly and from afar!) and playing with the random pet dogs that were running around. it was great just being able to observe and be amongst their culture. later in the evening, i had a fabulous seafood dinner while watching the sunset. Lamma is famous for its seafood, but meals here can get expensive!
village in Lamma Island
oh and to TVB fans, Lamma Island is where that show ‘Taste of Love’ was filmed :P
i would really have loved to visit Lantau Island, but sadly in all my time there i never got to go there :( from what i know of it, Lantau is more developed and more touristy than Lamma is. it’s the island on which that massive Buddha with many steps leading up to it is! Lantau is also home to Tai O, a really old fishing village on stilts that is supposed to be a very interesting visit.
4. Disneyland
i didnt like Disneyland very much when i went there. it was expensive, the queues were very long, the rides were unimpressive and the whole of the place just very small. i would give this a miss, but if it’s your cup of tea, why not?
5. Partying at Lan Kwai Fong
Lan Kwai Fong is the hip and glitzy party district in Hong Kong, where the yuppies, models and trendy folk are in abundance. it’s the place to go if you’re looking for somewhere to party – lots of bars and clubs in the vicinity. Martian’s favorite HK club, Volar, is here too. clubbing in HK is really different from clubbing in KL; over there, queuing in at the entrance doesnt mean you get in. they are really selective with who they allow to enter, and if you’re not on the guestlist, chances are you wont be getting in. so i mostly prefer just hanging out at the bars on ground-level to people-watch. oh and there are lots of yummy people to watch here :D lots of good restaurants here also!
LKF in the daytime. the pubs and bars are up the road
Lan Kwai Fong is located in Central, just up the road from Queen’s Rd Central and a short walk from the Mid Levels Escalator.
6. Taking the Ferry
view of HK Island from the ferry
another one of the things i loved doing in HK was taking the ferry across the harbour from the Kowloon side to the HK Island side. it’s just one of those quintessentially Hong Kong things to do! it’s a beautiful view at night as well if you’re coming from Kowloon and heading towards the brightly-lit and glam HK Island. in the evening just as the sun is setting, it’s even more gorgeous. and if you’re lucky, you may be able to catch one of those red-sailed junk boats sailing across the harbour! i NEVER saw one in my entire time in HK, until Martian took me on one for our first anniversary :) so yes, you can go on the junk boats too! though i regret to inform that i dont know how that is arranged :\
7. Temples, Museums & Beaches
i must say that i’ve only ever visited one temple (Tin Hau) and two beaches (Repulse Bay & Stanley Beach) in Hong Kong and no museums at all, but dont let my lack of enthusiasm stop you from checking out these places :P apparently the Hong Kong Museum of History is quite cool, and temples are really quite an important part of HK culture. as for the beaches… well, i guess as a tourist, there’s really much more to do in HK than tanning at the beach. but Martian recommends Shek O!
Stanley Beach
8. Shopping
a lot of people i know equate a HK trip to SHOPPING SPREE!!!, and even though i didnt shop very much in HK, i can definitely see why they say that. the fashion is diverse and up-to-date, you can put together the quirkiest styles here, everyone on the street is well-dressed and is good fashion inspiration, and things can get really cheap during the sales. some places that i like to shop at:
a) Causeway Bay
there is a lot more to CWB than just shopping, and when i’m there, it’s usually to hunt down good places to eat or just to poke around the streets of CWB.. but there are lots and LOTS of boutiques and clothing stores here. mostly trendy stuff that’s geared towards students and young adults. jeans galore. mid-range prices throughout! CWB is located on HK Island, and i would definitely recommend some time spent here even if you’re not looking to do any shopping. lots of good char chan tengs and noodle shops here!
b) Nathan Road
something like CWB, but more concentrated and is one long road instead of a labyrinth. Nathan Road is located in Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon side, and is heavily trawled by teenagers. mostly street wear, also mid-range prices. the surrounding area of TST also has a lot of shopping
c) Harbour City in Tsim Sha Tsui
THE BEST SHOPPING MALL IN ALL OF HONG KONG. it’s humongous and has EVERYTHING from low and mid range merchandise to the high end stuff like Gucci and LV. it’s a bit like 1 Utama + Pavilion and i absolutely love it to bits. i could spend all day shopping here! there’s also a City Super (excellent supermarket) as well as cinemas here. Harbour City is on Canton Road in Tsim Sha Tsui.
d) Temple Street
as mentioned above in the Mongkok section
e) Soho in Central
i spent a lot of time in Central because Martian lived really nearby when he was staying in Hong Kong. and believe you me, there’s a lot of shopping to be done here too. the shopping here is very much different from that of Causeway Bay and TST; it’s mostly quirky, quaint and themed. there are lots of these small but classy boutiques in the Soho area of Central, where the merchandise are things like pretty dresses, hats, shoes and bags by budding local designers and jewelery. there are also some really cool shops selling earrings, candles, new age books, antiques, girly things and boy’s toys. lots of places to poke around, especially if you’re looking for things and styles that are unique, personalized and quirky.
there’s also this street in Central called Pottinger Street, where a short and steep street is dedicated to stalls and stalls selling fancy dress costumes. it’s the COOLEST. i’ve bought loads and loads of stuff here, such as animal ears, angel wings, pirate costumes, police and nurse costumes, wigs, hats, face paint and the like. i love this place! prices can be bargained down.
a costume shop in Pottinger Street
besides shopping, you can also head down to Queen’s Road Central, which is practically the artery of Central, and treat yourself to an all-HongKong crowd jostle survival :D dont leave HK without doing this! there are also lots of good restaurants and hole-in-the-wall eateries around Central, which brings me to…
TO EAT
1. Dim Sum
once you have HK dim sum, no other dim sum is ever going to be good enough for you. sigh the siew mai and cheong fun is just …!!! i grasp for words to describe the sublimity. anyways the place where i had the best dim sum in HK is called Fu Sing Shark Fin & Seafood Restaurant. yes they serve shark fin, *scowl*, but the dim sum here is really out of this world – fresh, succulent, delicious, authentic. an absolute MUST-TRY here is the special char siew pau, which is made in polo pau style; it’s slightly crispy on the outside but oh-so-soft on the inside, with juicy marinated barbecued pork filling encased in a fragrant and milky golden bun… MMMM. BEST CHAR SIEW PAU IN THE WORLD. go early though, because this pau runs out quite soon and sometimes you have to place reservations for it. the Fu Sing Shark Fin & Seafood Restaurant is located on the 1st floor of Sunshine Plaza on 353 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai.
another place that is recommended for its dim sum is this place called Luk Yu Tea House which is tucked away in a little lane at 24 Stanley Street in Central. i went there on my first trip to HK and i quite liked the dimsum there, but it can be quite expensive. Fu Sing’s dimsum is better and more worth it!
Luk Yu Tea House in Central
also, you cant go wrong with Maxim’s Palace, which is a tourist favorite. it’s located in City Hall across the Mandarin. it’s not the best food and is always very packed, but it’s convenient to get to and slightly cheaper than other yam cha places.
2. Porridge / Congee
HK porridge is smooth and usually very simple in preparation. and also awesome :D you can get porridge in practically all yam cha spots, and they’re usually very good, but the one i like most of all is from this little congee & noodles place called Happy Garden, located on Canton Road just opposite the Harbour City mall in TST. one trip to HK, my parents and i stayed on Canton Road, and EVERY SINGLE NIGHT we went to Happy Garden for late-night wan tan noodles and century egg porridge. that’s how good it is :D
3. Char Chan Tengs
HK char chan tengs are what places like Kim Gary and Wongkok CCT got their inspiration from. they are noisy, crowded, brightly-lit little eateries that are open till late, and serve fare like instant noodles, fried rice, sandwiches, that notorious honey-coated french toast and drinks. it’s a very specific kind of cuisine that is unhealthy (haha), cheap (by HK standards… still quite expensive upon conversion from RM) but comforting and sticks to your bones.
char chan tengs are everywhere in HK, like EVERYWHERE, and they all really taste the same to me. there’s a chain called Tsui Wah which is supposed to be like an institution of HK because it’s the most familiar to locals and tourists alike, and the food there’s not bad. Martian and i usually pop in there for hot drinks during the winter or for instant noodles when we’re feeling peckish.
even though we get places like Kim Gary and all those other HKish places in SS2, i’d definitely recommend you try the real thing in HK :) tung lai cha and kong chai meen ftw!
4. Yung Kee roast goose
best and most famous roast goose in HK. it’s located on Wellington Street in Central. fat, succulent, amazing, crispy, tender, oily, delicious goose. enough said. *drools
5. Egg tarts
egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery
oh but you must. you must. YOU MUST. like dimsum, the egg tarts in HK are also a must-have when you visit. there are several famous (as in SUPER FAMOUS with long queues etc) egg tart bakeries in HK, but the one that i love most and always always always go back to is called Tai Cheong Bakery in Lyndhurst Terrace, Central. sigh so good. i have to have it every trip i go to HK. i bought some back for waimin last time and i think she fainted from how yummy it was. let me try to describe it: the egg filling is custardy, soft and sweet; the pastry is smooth, slightly dense but light, and melts in your mouth. it’s pure magic when you take that first bite and let it spread over your tongue. SIGH. please, if you trust me, you have to go to Tai Cheong bakery and buy their egg tarts.
6. DESSERT – Hui Lau Shan (that mango place) and Honeymoon Desserts
Hui Lau Shan in Causeway Bay
another HK institution. you see it all over the place as well, and even if you dont read Chinese (the signboard is in Chinese) it’s easily recognizable because all these mango-type places usually just jump out at you like that. Hui Lau Shan is a place that sells everything mango, be it pudding, drinks, mango with shaved ice, mango with glutinous rice, mango with sago, and many others. it’s good stuff but the novelty eventually wears off.
however, the place that i REALLY like but dont get to go to often cos it doesnt have as much presence as HLS is Honeymoon Dessert. the dessert array here is much wider and much more innovative, yet maintaining many authentic desserts. my favorites here are the Mango Pomelo Sago, Durian & Black Glutinous Rice in Coconut Milk, and Mango & Black Glutinous Rice in Vanilla Cream. mmmmm :)) Honeymoon Dessert has outlets in Sai Kung, Central, Causeway Bay and some other places that i dont know of.
Durian & Black Glutinous Rice in Coconut Milk, and Mango & Black Glutinous Rice in Vanilla Cream
7. Krispy Kreme
only if you’ve never had them or you have friends clawing at you to buy some back for them! there are several KK outlets across HK, but the only one i’ve ever been to besides the airport outlet is the one at Elgin Street in Soho, Central. the donuts at the airport outlet are slightly more expensive than at the other stores, though!
8. Rice bowls at 7 Eleven
cheap and good; absolutely amazing during the winter when it’s like 10 degrees out. i loooooove because they are cheap and so convenient – just pop the bowl in the microwave oven in 7 Eleven and you’re all set. perfect supper solution if you’re lazy to walk very far and want something hot. Rice with Minced Pork and Salted Fish, i do miss you so!
9. Noodles
shrimp dumpling noodles
again, nothing like the real thing. i dont have a specific place to recommend because these noodles shops are all over the place.. and they’re ALL good :)
MISC TIPS
1. English is only widely-spoken in certain areas in Hong Kong, so it’s always helpful to find out the Cantonese name of the place/street/building you want to go to, as most cabbies dont really know the English name of those places, especially streets and buildings.
2. the Octopus Card is very very helpful. it’s a stored value card that you can use for public transport (buses, trams, MTR), at most supermarkets and 7 Elevens and also McDonalds :D you can get them at all MTR stations, which you will most probably be seeing very often because taxi fares in HK are just killer expensive.
3. from the airport, taking the Airport Express is the cheapest and quickest way out. there are 3 stops: Tsing Yi, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. a return ticket on the Airport Express should cost about HKD 160 (RM 80), whereas a cab from the airport will cost HKD 350 (RM 175) and up. if you are traveling with 1 other person or alone, then the Airport Express is definitely cheaper and drops you at very strategic locations.
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okay that’s all i can think of for now :) hope it’s helpful, and do feel free to add on to this list if you’ve got any good recommendations for things to do, places to eat at and places to see in Hong Kong!! also do feel free to ask questions, and i will try my best to answer you.
August 12th, 2008
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